The best way to make hash with your leaf trim
Bubble hash is my favorite way to make hash with my leftover trim. Bubble bags make the most refined product possible without using anything other than water and bubble bags (which are really just buckets with screens for bottoms). The process of making bubble hash causes the resin glands aka “trichomes”, to break off of the leaf and bud trim and get caught in the bubble bags / screens. I prefer to use a 5 bag system which simply means that I use 5 different bubble bags / screens and each bag has a different sized mesh. The material that comes out of the first bag / screen (Usually a 220 micron) is just crap and should be thrown away.
The material that gets caught in the next two bags / screens (usually a 160 and a 120) is very good hash. The stuff that gets caught in the 4th bag (usually a 73 micron bag) is the very best and is what I always save for myself. This is what is known as “full melt bubble hash”. The term “full melt” refers to the lack of dark grey ash and unburnt material when it is smoked. High quality bubble will turn into a uniform light grey ash. It’s important not too store your bubble hash in an airtight container because it can mold easily. I prefer to keep mine in small jars with a piece of coffee filter or panty hose held on by a rubberband to act as a lid. This way air can pass through, but dust will not get in your hashish.
Making the Hash
What you need… I use about 10 lbs. of ice for every pound of weed material. Bubble bags. 2 5 gallon buckets. 1 pitcher. 1 fine mesh screen to dry the hash on. Some kind of card such as a credit card to scrape the hash from the bottom of the bubble bags. Plenty of fresh water.
I prefer to use a bubble machine (about $200 on ebay) but you don’t need one. A bubble machine is like a small dishwasher, you put a mesh bag full of marijuana in the bubble machine, fill it with cold water and ice, then turn it on. The machine automatically agitates the water back and forth like a washing machine, leaving the water green and bubbly. This agitation process is what causes the trichomes / crytals to break off of the pot leaf material. The ice also helps facilitate this process. You don’t need a bubble machine though, you can simply put your leaf material in a mesh bag and put the bag in a 5 gallon bucket of water with ice and stir it back and forth by hand with a stick or a large spoon.
I’m going to explain the method for making bubble hash without a bubble machine. If you have a bubble machine, it should be easy to read these directions and apply them to the use of bubble machine.
Step 1: Put your bubble bags in a 5 gallon bucket starting with the lowest micron number on the bottom. This will probably be a 25 micron bag/screen. The bag at the top of your stack of bags should be the highest micron number (probably a 220 micron bag). Now that you have all your bags stacked into each other and in a 5 gallon bucket, fill the top bag about 1/4 – 1/3 of the way full with ice, then fill it about 2/3rds full with water. Now take whatever pot leaf or bud trim you have and put it in a mesh bag and put the mesh bag in the top bag with the ice water. If you don’t have a mesh bag just put your trim right in the first bag with the ice water.
- It’s best to keep your trim in a paper bag in the freezer and don’t take it out of the freezer until your ready to use it.
- There is no real noticable difference in the final product if you use dried leaf trim or fresh and wet trim.
- The better the quality of the pot material the better the quality of the final hash product.
- It’s best to use clean reverse osmosis water but not necessary and you would have a hard time (if not impossible) telling the difference between bubble hash made with straight reverse osmosis water or well water.
Step 2: Take a big plastic spoon and stir the ice water with the trim in it. Stir it back and forth in opposite directions. Stir it vigorously for about 20 minutes.
Step 3: Pull the top bag out of the bucket and let the water drain through it into the next bag. This first bag will have leaf trim material in it. The rest of the bags will all have hash in them.
- This first bag will be full of trim material, not hash. Don’t throw it away though, you will want to “wash” it a few more times before you can’t get anything else out of it.
Step 4: Pull the next bag out of the bucket (this will be a 160 micron if you are using a 5 bag set of bags). Let the water drain from this bag into the next just like you did with the first bag. Now take a pitcher full of clean water and rinse out the sides of the bag so that all of the hash rinses off the sides of the bag and down to the middle of the bottom of the bag where it can accumulate and be scraped up easily with a credit card or something similar. Hold the bag over the next one as you rinse it. Then hang the bag over the bath tub or somewhere that you can let it drip dry for about 10-20 minutes. There may be a lot of small water bubbles in the bottom of the bag but they will dissapate.
- Try not to use a whole lot of water when you rinse the sides of the bags, otherwise the bucket may overflow and also the last few bags will have a lot of water to filter through them and as the screen size gets smaller on the bags, the water takes longer to pass through the bags so you will be left holding a heavy bag of water waiting for the water to pass through the bottom.
Step 5: PUll out the next bag (this will be a 120 micron bag) and rinse it just like you did the last bag, then hang it up over the tup to drip dry. Now take the next bag out (this will be a 73 micron bag) and rinse it out and hang it to dry with the others.
Step 6: The final bag is the 25 micron and the water usually takes a very, very, very long time to pass through this bag. Instead of waiting the incredibly long time for the water to pass through the 25 micron bag, I fold the top of the bag together so that I can twist it back and forth as I hold it suspended in the bucket. This helps the water pass through the bag quicker. Because it takes so rediculously long to drain all the water out of the 25 micron bag, I usually only drain about half of the water out of it then I use the water that’s left in the bag as my “starting” water on the next “run”.
Step 7: Now get the screen (or whatever you’re going to use to allow your hash to dry on), and take a credit card and scrape the wet hash from the bottom of the 160 micron bag. Now scrape the hash out of the bottom of the 120 micron bag and put it on your drying screen, but keep it seperated from the hash out of the last bag. Now scrape the hash out of the 73 micron bag and put it on your drying screen.
- The hash in the 160 micron bag is “good”, the hash in the 120 micron bag is “better”, and the hash that is in the 73 micron bag is the “best”. The hash you get out of the 25 micron bag at the end of the process is better than the 120 but not as good as the hash in the 73 micron bag.
Step 8: You want to “rinse” the pot material two more times to make sure you’ve gotten all the hash possible out of it. So… to repeat the process, take the water that is left in the 25 micron bag and put it in another bucket or the pitcher. Now put this 25 micron bag in an empty bucket. Then put the 73 micron bag in it, then the 120 micron bag, then the 160 micron bag, and then the 220 micron bag that should still have all the trim material in it. Fill the top bag again with about 1/4 ice, then add the bucket or pitcher of “green” water left over from the 25 micron bag, now add fresh clean water until the bag is about 2/3rds – 3/4s full again. Now stir it up again for about 20 minutes just like the first time and then rinse and hang the bags again.
Step 9: On the final run this is when I will let all of the water pass through the 25 micron screen and let the screen drip dry like the others. It’s going to take a long time for the water to pass through it though so you will want to hang the bag over the bathtub and leave it hanging over night to let all the water pass through. Or you can speed the process up by closing up the top of the bag and twisting it back and forth to help agitate the water and force the water through the bag a little faster. This is a lot of work though and you might want to just hang the bag and let the water drip out of it. This may take a full day though.
- I usually prefer to “run” the same batch of pot trim 3 or 4 times before I discard the trim material. I find that the second run I usually get a little over half as much as I got out of the first run. On the third run I usually get about half as much as I do from the second run.
- Out of about 1 pound of marijuana trim I usually end up with about 40 grams of 73 micron hash (this is the best stuff), about 5 grams of the 120 micron hash, and about 7 grams of the 160 micron hash.
- If you have a drying screen to dry the hash on, it usually only takes about 4 days to be completely dry. This depends on the humidity and temperature to some degree.
- Don’t store your hash in an airtight container or it might mold. Put your hash in a small jar and keep a piece of coffee filter on it for a lid.